Photo by Kelly DeMartini
Provenance of Dish
I have honed this dish down to perfection after a few years of really bountiful CA golden chanterelles allowed me to experiment with my recipe.
1 Quart homemade chicken (or vegetable) stock
1 bay leaf (or 1/4-1/2 of a California Bay Laurel)
1 shallot or 1/4 of a yellow onion
5 Tbsp. butter
1 Tbsp. olive oil
3/4 lb chopped Golden Chanterelles or more
1-1/8 cup Arborio or Carnaroli rice
1-1/2 cups non-fruity wine; vermouth, red or dry white
1/2 cup grated Parmagiano Reggiano cheese
freshly grated nutmeg, salt and white pepper to taste
Put the quart of chicken stock and the bay leaf on to simmer in a pot with a lid; leave on a very low simmer, covered, as you cook.
Mince the shallot (or onion) and sweat it in a mix of 1 Tbsp butter and 1 Tbsp. olive oil in a large heavy-bottomed pot with a dash of sea salt; don't let them brown.
Add the chanterelles and sweat them down with a dash of sea salt until all liquid is gone and chanterelles are just starting to brown.
When the liquid from the mushrooms is gone, add in another 2 Tbsp. of butter and the rice and stir well with a wooden spoon until the rice is nicely transparent and starting to make noise; med-hi heat.
Add in 1-1/2 cups of wine and stir well -- stir like you're making risotto -- not constantly but almost so.
When the wine is absorbed, lower the heat to med-low and add in a couple of ladle-fulls of the hot stock (around a cup at a time.) Stir again until absorbed; continue adding a couple of ladles of stock at a time until all stock is gone. When risotto has come to this last addition of stock, do not let all of the final addition of liquid be absorbed into the rice, as this moisture will mix with the additional cheese and butter to make a gravy-ish sauciness to the risotto.
Remove pan from heat, add another 2 Tbsp. of butter and 1/2 cup of grated parmigiano reggiano. Stir briefly.
Season to taste with sea salt and freshly ground white pepper (and a dash of freshly grated nutmeg if you like-- I like!) and serve immediately.
This recipe is also excellent made with Black Trumpets (Craterellus cornucopioides)